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The mountains of Tajikistan contain wonderful country to trek through, crossing high passes and camping amidst summer pastures.
The Pamir Mountains dominate the eastern part of Tajikistan. Glittering ice-covered peaks jut up into the sky at altitudes of up to 7,500m. The Fann Mountains are part of the huge spur jutting westward from the Pamir range. This is a picturesque land of juniper forests, clouded peaks and grandiose rock walls. Beautiful chains of lakes grace the mountains like a string of bright pearls. This is wonderful country to trek through, crossing high passes, perhaps trying one of the easier peaks and camping amidst summer pastures.
In the remote valleys and uplands of the Western Pamir, it is still possible to hear the Sogdian tongue being spoken. This was the language of Persian kings - Cyrus, Darius and Xerxes - and of Roxanne, the wife of Alexander the Great.
The western Pamiri tribes have preserved their culture and traditions, including elements of the Sogdian religion, Zoroastrianism. It is easy to see where this fire-worshipping religion originated - by closely observing the mountain tops in the Yaghnob area, it is possible to see smoke, and at night, flames. These are underground coal fires which have been burning for thousands of years. (In the 1st century AD, the Roman scholar Plinius the Elder wrote, "The tops of mountains burn in Baktria at nights").
This trek combines walking in some of the most beautiful and unusual mountains of Central Asia, with an exploration of this vanished people and their once-mighty civilisation.
The Sogdian Route: Trek in the western Pamir-Alai
This week-long trek takes in some of the most beautiful scenery in Tajikistan - the legendary Iskandarkul Lake (associated with Alexander the Great); tempestuous rivers; and views of high glaciated summits. Between the rocky passes, the alpine meadows are awash with colour. Several Golden Eagles have their home here along with vultures, chuffs, hoopoes and other colourful bird-life.
The Bactrian Route: Trek in the Fann Mountains
One of the most amazing features of the Pamir region is Lake Sarez, hidden in the central knot of mountains. The lake was formed after a massive earthquake on 18 February 1911 (estimated to have scored eight or nine on the Richter Scale). Two cubic kilometres of rock were dislodged, burying Usoi village and blocking the Murghab River.
The resulting Usoi Dam is one of the largest natural dams in the world: 700m high, 4 Km wide and 4.5 Km long. The lake which formed behind the dam is 60 Km long, and contains an estimated 17 Km3 of water, equivalent to the annual discharge of the Amu Darya River. Some scientists fear that an earthquake of similar magnitude to the one in 1911 could dislodge the dam, which would cause a natural catastrophe of Biblical proportions, flooding an area of 52,000 Km2 across four countries.
South of Lake Sarez in the Alichur river valley is the picturesque Yashikkul Lake ("Blue Water"). It is a much more ancient lake than Sarez, and there is a legend among the population that an animal known as the "water camel" lives in its waters - perhaps a distant relative of the monster that inhabits Loch Ness.
This trek begins in the Gunt Valley near Khorog, and passes through diverse terrain: mountains and rocks, deep rivers and rapids, imposing heights, glaciers and green gorges. After reaching Lake Sarez, the "Sleeping Dragon", we descend to Yashikkul and Bulunkul lakes, strung out like blue pearls along the valley.
Pamir Trekking: Sarez and Yashikkul Lakes
In the Fann mountain valleys, the trails are mostly quite good. However, on the passes and moraines they are little used and therefore more rugged. Although the routes are not difficult, sometimes the passes are steep. There are several river crossings, some over good bridges, some over roughly made ones. The average day involves some 5-7 hours walking. Some days are rest days (see the itineraries for details).
Although the walking treks are not really physically demanding, you need to be reasonably active and in good health. Some previous hill walking experience is desirable but not essential. Our tours do not require technical skills, just that you are fit enough to enjoy hiking.
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