Contents
This tour combines the best of our Pamir Highway Jeep Tour with a short walk in the Wakhan Valley.
| 1-21 July 2007 | High Pamir Jeep Tour Start: Tashkent
Finish: Bishkek | GBP £2,450 ground only (excluding flights) |
- Discovering Zoroastrian Fire Temples in the Wakhan Corridor
- The spellbinding scenery and cultures of the High Pamirs
- Follow in the footsteps of Alexander the Great and Marco Polo
Following forgotten byways of the Silk Road through the mountains of Central Asia, this sensational adventure will astonish and captivate in equal measure. This is a combined 4WD and trekking adventure that will take you to places rarely seen by westerners.
Once known as Bactria, the High Pamir region in modern-day Tajikistan, with its ancient caravanserais, Zoroastrian fire-temples, wildly coloured desert canyons and huge glaciers is a remote wilderness with a history of romance and adventure. The Tajiks call this region Bom-i-Dunyo – the Roof of the World. Merchants and traders, military units, missionaries and pilgrims have been travelling here for centuries, and Marco Polo writes of the Pamir in his journal. Some two and a half thousand years ago, Alexander the Great led his armies through this wilderness, on his epic conquest of Central Asia, and the Sogdian language, which Alexander would have heard as he passed through this region, is still spoken in mountain villages here. The nineteenth-century manoeuvrings between British India and Tsarist Russia known as the Great Game also concluded here among some of the world’s highest mountains.
On this epic journey we travel by 4WD from Tashkent, continuing to the 2,500-year-old city of Uro-Teppa, before driving through the valleys and passes of the Western Pamir-Alai mountains to Iskandarkul (Lake Alexander). The rapid blue waters of the Iskandar River rush out of the lake and pour down a spectacular 30-metre waterfall.
Heading down through the modern capital Dushanbe, and through dramatic mountain scenery, the route up the Vranj River valley and the caravanserai of Ishkashim, we are at the mouth of the Wakhan Corridor. The hiking is mainly across reworked glacial sediments, although some parts are a little more challenging. The terrain is wide-open, affording tremendous views of the Hindu Kush and Pamir mountain ranges. We follow the Panj River approximately 50 km upstream from the village of Yamchun to its source just below the town of Langar.
Here we encounter our first Zoroastrian fire-temple, the virtually impregnable Zamri Otashparast, protected by two deep river canyons. Further along is the village of Yamg, where the astronomer, theologian, poet and traveller Sufi Muborak-Kadam lived. Here a stone pillar, with an opening through which he determined the days of the calendar, still stands. A further day brings us to the town of Vrang, above which, on a cliffside pitted with man-made caves, was found a ritual Buddhist complex dating to the fourth century. Finally we arrive at the last village in the Wakhan region, the small border town of Langar. Above Langar, the mountain slopes have rare examples of rock graffiti depicting mountain goats, caravans, horse riders with banners, and the Ismaili symbol of a hand.
Leaving the Corridor, the drive continues high up onto the Pamir Plateau as we head for Kyrgyzstan. Here in the rocky desert, the views are desolate and beautiful, and at night there are breathtaking views of the Milky Way. We will have an opportunity to ride out on camels to a Kyrgyz yurt encampment to see how these remarkable nomadic herders live. Crossing Tajikistan's highest passes, we finally descend into Kyrgyzstan, arriving in Osh, one of the great bazaar towns of Central Asia, before taking the short flight to Bishkek, and completing this unforgettable journey.
Day 1. Tashkent - Arrive Tashkent. Transfer to hotel to freshen up and sleep for a few hours. Half-day city tour of Tashkent, including the Fine Arts Museum of Textiles and Ceramics. Return to hotel (min.3*+)
Day 2. Tashkent to Istarafshan - After breakfast, transfer to Tajik border then drive to Khujand. After lunch, an exploration of the fortress by the Syr Darya river, the Khujand ethnographic museum, Panjshanbe Bazaar and the mosque/madrassa complex. In the evening continue to Istarafshan and watch the sun go down from the Mugh-Teppa hill fortress. Overnight in newly constructed hotel (min. 3*+)
Day 3. Istarafshan to Lake Iskandarkul - Istarafshan’s history has shaped the character of the people who live in the city. It's a fascinating place with some of the oldest and most intact Islamic buildings in Tajikistan where the traditional street layout of the old city has been preserved. In the morning, visit the mosque and madrassa of Kok Gumbaz, the mausoleum of Chor Gumbaz After lunch, depart for Iskandarkul passing over Shahriston Pass (3,378 m) and descend to Aini, before leaving the main road to ascend to the lake. Overnight in basic chalets.
Day 4. Lake Iskandarkul - Day trek around Iskandarkul Lake. Return to the chalets.
Day 5. Lake Iskandarkul to Duschanbe - Return to the main road and drive over Anzob Pass (3,373 m), descending into Varzob Gorge. Arrive in Dushanbe in the afternoon with some free time, schedule permitting. Accommodation in guest house.
Day 6. Duschanbe - Visit nearby Hissor Fort, former capital of Eastern Bukhara province; the site has two fine 18th/19th century madrassas. After lunch under an ancient tree, head back to Dushanbe for shopping, extra sightseeing or rest. Overnight in guesthouse.
Day 7. Duschanbe to Kailaikham - Drive east from Dushanbe towards Khorog and the Pamirs. Today's drive is a sharp contrast to the first few days of the tour. This region is much more strongly Muslim and this can be seen in the conservative dress and beards. Over a mountain pass to Kalaikhum and the scenery and people change again. Here the people are Pamiris, not Tajiks, a number of separate tribal groups with their own languages. Overnight in guesthouse
Day 8. Kaiaikhum to Khorog - Follow the fascinating road along the Afghan border. On the Tajik side, the road is asphalted and buildings have metal and glass in their construction. On the Afghan side, about 100m away, everything is mud, wood and donkey tracks. Dinner is accompanied by music, singing and dancing from a local Pamiri group. Overnight in hotel.
Day 9. Khorog to Ishkashim - In the morning we explore Khorog, then head south to Ishkashim. Stop to bathe at the hot, mineral filled springs at Garmchashma on the way. Ishkashim is a small town at the mouth of the Wakhan corridor, where the 19th century Great Game ended. Continue up the north side of the river with amazing views of the Pamirs to the left and the Hindu Kush to the right; a number of peaks in view are above 6,000m. Overnight in a traditional Pamiri home.
Day 10. Ishkashim to Yamchun - After the drive from Ishkashim, we camp near the clear water hot springs at Bibi Fatima. Walk along the ridge and see a Zoroastrian ‘Fortress of Fire Worshippers’. Overnight camp.
Day 11. Yamchun to Yamg - Visit the quirky museum of Sufi Muborak-kadam, a local Sufi scholar, theologian, poet and traveller, who died in 1910. Near his house there is a stone pillar with a hole, which he used to calculate a solar calendar and a local house with incriptions and decorations. Continue by road to Vrang and climb up the hill to see the Buddhist Ziggurat complex. Overnight in a Pamiri home.
Day 12. Trek from Vrang to Langar via Zong - Overnight in the Aga Khan house in Langar.
Day 13. Langar to Yashikkul - In the cool of the morning, make a steep climb above the village and see the petroglyphs carved into the rock, depicting mountain goats, caravans, horse riders with banners, and the Ismaili symbol of a hand. Drive from Langar over Khargush Pass to Bulunkul and Yashikkul Lakes. Overnight in a Kyrgyz home.
Day 14. Lakes - Day trek around Bulunkul and Yashikkul Lakes. Overnight in a Kyrgyz home.
Day 15. Yashikkul to Murghab - Travel east from Bulunkul along the Pamir Highway to Murghab. The view is stark and desolate. At night the clear view of the Milky Way is unparalleled. Overnight in a local homestay.
Day 16. Murghab to Rangkul Lake - Drive from Murghab to Rangkul Lake near the Chinese border. Here there is a Kyrgyz yurt encampment, where we will stay and experience jailoo life
Day 17. Rangkul to Karakul - Camel trek around Rangkul, then drive to Karakul Lake, which at 3,915 m is too high to support aquatic life. Cross Tajikistan's highest section of road, Ak-Baital Pass (4,655 m). Stop to see the remains of a Great Game-era Russian military post. Overnight in a local home.
Day 18. Karakul to Osh - Cross Kyzyl-Art Pass (4,280 m), which forms the border with Kyrgyzstan and descend to Sary-Tash and Osh. (Change vehicles in Sary-Tash). Overnight in a guesthouse.
Day 19. Osh - Visit Suleyman Mountain, Babur’s house, History Museum, Rabat Abdullah Khan Mosque and Mausoleum, Osh Bazaar. Transfer to airport for flight to Bishkek and overnight in guest house.
Day 20. Bishkek - Morning excursion to Ala-Archa Nature park then return to Bishkek. Tour of Bishkek including Ala-Too Square, Panfilov park, History Museum, ZUM, and Victory Square. Overnight in a guesthouse.
Day 21. Onward travel - Transfer to the airport for your return or onward journey.
|
